Edo, Belfast: ‘Go there for the wood-fired oven’ – restaurant review


The region’s finest cuts of meat sumptuosly roasted make Edo stand out in a vibrant restaurant sector

A few hours before I ate at this week’s restaurant in Belfast, I stopped off at Hannan Meats, in Moira, 30 minutes’ drive southwest of the city. Last year their beef, aged in a room lined with glittering bricks of pink Himalayan salt, was named Supreme Champion in the Great Taste Awards for the second time. It’s a serious achievement, but not necessarily a surprising one to those of us who know their product.

I don’t know what impact salt ageing has. It may have a certain antibacterial effect, which reduces that hefty tang of putrefaction that long-aged beef can sometimes have. Perhaps it’s just hygroscopic, and reduces the water content more quickly. Whatever the reason, it’s seriously good. At Christmas the queue outside their onsite shop went twice round the building. Try it for yourself in any of Mark Hix’s restaurants in London or it’s available to buy at Fortnum & Mason.

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