Going Deutsch: a summer tour of Germany, part one

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Our trip starts with a few days’ hiking in Bavaria’s mountainous Berchtesgaden district – trying to avoid its most infamous resident

The late train to Berchtesgaden is not busy. A group of beefy young men in leather shorts with embroidered braces, who appear utterly Bavarian, get on with another group of young men who are stick-thin and chatting in Somali. I’m with Conor, my son, who now lives in Munich. Could these be recent arrivals? “Doubtful,” he says. “They look like they’re settled in.”

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