The Old House, Hull: ‘It could be great…’ – restaurant review

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One of Hull’s oldest buildings has been given a new lease of life – and with a few tweaks it could really be top notch

The Old House by Shoot the Bull, 5 Scale Lane, Hull HU1 1LA (01482 210 253). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £40-£100

Chris Harrison knows how to do a lot of things. At the Old House pub, Hull’s oldest domestic building, he seems determined to do most of them. Perhaps this is driven by necessity. Hull may be the City of Culture, a place of fine maritime history and Larkin’s rhythmic misanthropy, but it isn’t quite the city of food culture right now. Scan the horizon for good restaurants and inevitably you end up circling around the much-written-about 1884 Dock Kitchen. It’s the local restaurant of quiet ambition, the one everyone’s heard of, that place where they do the thing. Where, as it happens, Harrison was once head chef.

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