The dining room may look a bit drab, but the adventurous menu is on a mission to send you into unknown territory
Sanxia Renjia, 36 Deptford Broadway, London SE8 4PQ (020 8692 9633). Meal for two including service: £50-£75
There is just one other person at Sanxia Renija, in Deptford, when we arrive for an early dinner. He is alone, working his way through a quarter of crispy duck and pancakes. Oh dear. On the one hand, being judgmental about other people’s menu choices is unkind. On the other, what a schmuck. Going to an arse-kicking, cheek-slapping, thigh-spanking, gloriously ring-burning Sichuan restaurant like this and ordering the crispy duck is a little like popping into a brothel and paying for a chat. Of course you can do that. It’s your money. But it is rather missing the point.