Winemakers Deptford, London SE8: ‘This is seriously assured cooking’ – restaurant review | Felicity Cloake


The cheese soufflé come with a helping of crunchy, mustardy piccalilli so lavish it is more like a salad than a condiment

The closer we get to Winemakers Deptford, the clearer it becomes that I’ve invited the wrong people to dinner. This south London high street, with its happy jumble of bike cafes, Vietnamese travel agents and serious boozers advertising rooms “by the night”, looks and feels as if it’s in the hipster stage of gentrification, and I don’t think my parents would mind me saying we ain’t no hipsters.

“Is this it?” Mum says doubtfully, peering into a brightly lit kebab shop. The dog gamely attempts entry, but I steer them both next door, where the music spilling on to the street confirms my worst fears. The raucous buzz from the fashionable young crowd inside doesn’t help with the noise levels, either.

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