There’s something about a bake, be it sweet or savoury, that brings comfort to a cold day – and saves on the washing-up, too
It’s a good time of the year for a bake, a great user-upper of all that super-ripe, tail-end-of-the-season produce. A bake, for me, is also a delightful catch-all, because it lets me make something that pays tribute to, but doesn’t quite follow, the tradition of another dish.
Today’s sweet bake, for example, is part friand and part clafoutis. And with the pissaladière gratin, I’ve taken the classic flavour combination of pissaladière (the southern French take on pizza, with a caramelised onion and salted anchovy topping) and simplified it into a base-free bake. The result is like a cream-free dauphinoise – so, again, a dish that nods in two directions. As for the lamb bake, well, I’d normally call that a meatloaf, but that seems to put some people off from the start.